Ghosts’N’Stuff – Two Trips, One Post

It is just over a year since I started my gap year. In just over three months I move to Plymouth to begin life as a student. Just over two weeks ago I had the last ever shift of my first job.

I left school and pretty quickly found myself tangled in the world of work. I managed to get a good summer of climbing in, my first proper season outdoors, but since September I have only managed to get out climbing a handful off times. After my trip to El Chorro and sending Dyperspace, it quickly became clear that if I didn’t get out climbing as much as possible this summer, I was going to feel like I had in some ways, wasted my gap year. So with as much money saved as possible, I’ve taken the risk, left my job, and I’m going climbing.

And that’s exactly what I’ve done, getting out three times on my first week of no work. My first trip was to Crunch Buttress (which I wrote about in my previous blog) and then on Friday 13th I went to Long Tor Quarry and on Sunday 15th I headed out to Raven Tor.

Long Tor Quarry is a small limestone crag near Matlock, and on Mirfs’ recommendation me and Dave had headed out there to try The Boltest a three star 7c. The route itself is 20 meters of very sustained, very reachy climbing on small crimps on a very slightly overhanging wall. On paper this should be my ideal route, but I really didn’t enjoy it. I did all the moves but it just didn’t inspire me, I don’t really want to put the time into getting it done, especially when there’s so many other routes I want to do. Maybe I will go back though, I know Dave is quite keen to work it and do it, so if he goes back, maybe I’ll have a second look.

The original plan for Sunday had been to head to Chee Tor to investigate some of the routes there. However after getting slightly lost and going around in a massive circle, miserable weather had set in and it was clear only overhanging crags where gong to remain dry. Desperate times call for desperate measures and Raven Tor was selected as our wet weather venue.

After putting the draws in and top roping the crux sequence clean first and second go on a top rope to remind myself of the foot positions and how the moves felt, I was confident enough to start redpointing Wild In Me once more.

On my first redpoint attempt I made it up to the final crux move that I had dropped so many times before. Despite cold fingers I committed to what was to be another fruitless attempt. However at least I had warmed my fingers up. A short rest and it was time for round two and although I felt a lot better on the holds I just couldn’t latch the last hold on the last hard move. Taking another trip into space, gravity quickly pulled me back down to earth, balls first straight into the path of the oncoming rope. My ridicules lycra leggings offered no protection and only drew more attention to my plight. I politely declined the ibuprofen I was jokingly offered by a passer by and walked off the pain. Third time lucky?

Putting my balls on the line once again I tied in for my third attempt. Hoping been faster through the opening sequence would make the last move easier I pulled as smoothly and quickly as I possibly could through the opening boulder problem. However as I placed my left hand on a crimp on the upper wall it didn’t feel right, I quickly chalked up, desperate to finally send the route. Hand now chalked, the crimp suddenly felt a lot better and staying calm I got to the third and smallest of the crimps with my right hand.

“This time buddy” I sad to myself.

I committed once again and finally luck was on my side and I held it. Now all I had to do was stay calm reach up for the easier holds and keep my feet on and in about half a metres time I would be clipping the chains. Just as I matched the good holds though my feet came off. I couldn’t blow it now, I quickly swung my feet back on and clipped the third bolt. Needless to say I thoroughly enjoyed the jug romp to the top that followed and felt extremely relieved to be clipping the chains on session number three, especially seen as I’d been dropping that last move on lead since session number one.

Unfortunately on both these trips I didn’t manage to take any pictures, but here is the one Nick took of me on Wild In Me on session number two –

You Really Got Me – Enjoying Costa Del Jolly

Agent Provocateur has been on my hit list/wish list ever since I saw Mirf first try it when we went to Moat and Crunch Buttress at Water-cum-Jolly last summer. Only two days before we went on that trip, I had done my first 7b route and had you asked me on that day if I thought that within twelve months, I would be back and trying it myself, my answer would have been, “Ha ha, I wish”.  Even yesterday morning when I was picked up I was dubious I’d do little more than get off the floor before trying to find something easier to work on. But just the thought of been able to finally work a route with Mirf was enough to get me psyched to at least try it.

Despite worries we would run out of petrol before making it to a petrol station, let alone the crag, we arrived to find really nice conditions, even if the very bottom of Agent Provocateur was a little damp. However, beer towels put to full use and some chalk on the important bits and we were ready for a quick warm up before putting a rope up on it. To warm up I top roped a lovely little 6b,  it is one of many easier rotes that have been newly/retro bolted down there recently, helping make it a crag with a route on it for most, with a grade range from 6b to 8b.

The River That Runs Through Water-cum-Jolly

Fingers warm and we were ready to start working out the moves on the main attraction. Last time Mirf had tried Agent Provocateur he had started to far right and had been unable to do the last hard move at the top as he tried to do it the way shown in the picture in the guidebook rather than the dynamic method which is far easier (although it’s still hard enough). Yesterday though, he had worked out a full sequence whilst putting the draws in and after another top rope was ready to start redpointing it. The route itself can be broken down into two boulder problems, a hard 7A+ that ends with a dynamic move to a good hold and an alright rest, followed by a 7Aish problem with another even more dynamic move to a jug, that is easily dropped after doing the rest of the route.

With Mirf tying in for an attempt I walked round to the top and abseiled of to try and get some good pictures. Before I could realise what was going on he was already through the first section, and without resting, was pushing onwards to the final hard move.

My heart was in my mouth, did I watch Mirf, or did I focus on taking pictures?!

I could see Mirf eyeing up the good jug, a glint of excitement in his eyes. This was it, one leap between success and failure.

Mirf Eying Up The Jug On The Last Hard Move

He leapt.

Getting Spat Of By The Last Move

He Missed.

Surely it would go next time? Meanwhile though through out the day I had also been trying the route on a top rope and was super surprised to have done all the moves on my first time on the route. A few more top rope attempts and although the moves still felt really hard and I got really trashed trying them, to have a sequence on an 8a+, something three grades harder than I’ve ever led, is an amazing feeling and I really hope I can put some more time into it this Summer, especially seen as it shouldn’t get to warm as the crag is in the shade. Another thing that makes me believe I can do it is that after re-watching the two videos of the route, I have seen some new beta that should hopefully make some of the sequences, including the moves I found hardest a little easier. I guess though only time will tell, and I don’t want to focus to much and get bogged down by one route. But if I can do the moves, just maybe, I can link it.

My First Go On The Route

The 80’s Look Was Out For My Next Top Rope

Before we left Mirf had one more redpoint attempt. He fell off the lower section but quickly jumped back on and cruised through it. However when he got up to the final few moves something was wrong. “Take”. Mirf had done something to his right knee using a crucial heel-toe cam and I had apparently only not heard the crunch because I was to busy listening to the shutter as I tried to take photos. So it looks like this one is going to have to wait for Mirf at least. It’s a good job there’s another 8a+ and an 8b for him to try down there!

A Picture Of Mirf On The Warm Up Route

 

Here Comes The Summer – A Daytrip To Millstone

Although I am terrible for going out with a plan, a route I want to try, a goal for the day, sometimes, it is nice just to go out climbing without a plan. You have the chance to do whatever you feel like on the day without any pressure you’ve put upon yourself in the predeceasing days.

Two Sundays ago I was supposed to be attempting to run eight and a bit miles around Sutton. I’d even had to pay for the privilege of participating. But two and a half months after I had signed up and one five mile training run five weeks before the day itself and it was pretty clear I was anything but prepared and I definitely wasn’t psyched for it. So on Friday when Mirf told me that a large majority of the redpoint massif (two member of mums on tour included) were heading out climbing for the day on Sunday, I quickly checked the forecast for an excuse to bail on the fun run.  Glorious sunshine forecast and confirmation it was me and not my father who had paid for my entry to the fun run and my mind was made up.

Fast forward to Sunday and I had somehow persuaded Father Ratcliffe to drive me to Dave’s so I could get a lift with him to Millstone. I had only been told we were going to Millstone at 8 o’clock that morning, so only had time to grab my copy of the guidebook before I left. I had no idea what to expect from this quarried gritstone crag I had never been to before.  A quick flick through the guidebook in the car on the way there seemed to reveal that unless you wanted to climb some scary arêtes, it was time to learn how to crack climb.

The View From Embankment Wall At Millstone

Unsure what to do when I got to the crag, I decided to throw a rope down and abseil of the edge to try and take some pictures of Dom on Embankment Route 4.  Mirf had already led it and left some gear in for him, but still, it would be his first gritstone E1 and his fourth ever trad route, it was definitely going to be exiting to see how his lead played out. After climbing mum had fully prepped him and made sure he had an adequate rack to further protect the route, he kindly waited until I was ready before he set off. I think everyone who watched, felt that it went extremely smoothly and apart from one cam placement that didn’t go his way (and he ended up not clipping), he eased his way up the route extremely confidently. However I did ask Dom how he felt it went –

“I was excited to start off and found the climbing easy, although I had one iffy cam placement which made me nervous, after this I started climbing well again and composed myself to make it safely to the top.”

 

 

Dom wasn’t the only one attempting E1’s though and with a few tips of Mirf on how to climb finger cracks I decided to give Embankment Route 3 a go. The fact it had two old pegs in it and that cracks are well protected, was probably a big help for my confidence in climbing the route. However despite my total lack of experience climbing cracks, I did find the climbing extremely steady and I even managed to find a no hands rest.  Apparently using it was showing off though.

To finish the day I seconded Mirf up an E2 finger crack which was amazing, and is definitely something I’d like to go back and lead along with routes such as Reagent Street (one of Mirfs top ten peak routes). I also had a go on a few boulder problems and before I knew it, it was time for an ice cream and then home. So it was another excellent family day out and I look forward to the next. Lets hope this good weather is here to stay.

In the meantime here are a few more pictures I took at Milstone-

Bill Climbing

Everyone Looking Happy 🙂

Some Serious Climbing Taking Place…

The View From The Top Of The Crag

Too Close – Raven Tor Round Two

So as has been the case for almost all my other days off recently the forecast on last Tuesday looked grim. However this time round I didn’t have to try to beg and plead to get out and get wet as Bill and Nick had already decided to take to risk and kindly said they would put up with me for the day. Heading to Raven Tor as this was the place it would most likely stay dry, I was super psyched to get back on Wild In Me, and I felt pretty confident I would get it.

As we drove past the left hand side of The Tor to go grab the parking spot at the other end I quickly spotted Ethan Walker standing there surrounded by a massive camera set up. As we wondered up to have a look at Weedkiller Traverse we where greeted by a super psyched boulder with a massive grin on his face. He quickly told us he had sent Powerband and that it was Sean McColl trying Hubble that was been filmed.

Nick Having A Quick Play On Weedkiller Traverse (7B)

It was hard not to be super psyched after hearing all this and after Bill and Nick had had a quick play on Weedkiller I jumped straight on for a redpoint attempt on Wild In Me. However this quickly backfired and as I hadn’t been on the route in over two weeks my footwork was all over the place. My classic drunken giraffe style was out in full force. Jumping off to recompose myself I belayed Bill and Nick on it and they both found the opening boulder problem pretty easy and Bill looked steady on the crimps in the upper half.

Bill Looking Focused On Wild In Me

Just after lunch time the pros left the crag (no doubt to head to the pub) leaving only the true hardcore behind. Not wanting to get shown up by a pair of dads I knew I had to get my act together. Fortunately I managed to put aside my drunken giraffe antics and pull some decent attempts out of the bag at the end of the day, but once again even when I touched the hold at the end of the last hard move, I wasn’t able to keep a hold of it. So it looks like this one is going to have to wait for session number three.

However I didn’t go away empty handed.  As Bill and Nick were playing on the boulder problem start to Rattle and Hump and because I felt to boxed to have another go at Wild In Me I jumped on it.  Going a 7a+ I was definitely not expecting to do it that session, yet alone it under ten goes, but clearly the training is paying off and now I need to go and see what the rest of the route is like. So who knows maybe before the end of the summer I will tick an 8a route. Lets hope I can get the Nick and Bill out to crush it as they will definitely send 7c this year!

Tiger In My Tank – A Day At The Roaches

If you read my post on my goals for this year you’d have probably guessed that Trad was something at the very far back of my mind.

But just in case you missed it this is what I wrote-

Trad – At the moment I’m not as psyched for trad as I am for sport or bouldering. I’m not experienced enough to jump on anything really hard and I really want to do some hard climbing this Summer. This means I probably won’t focus on it loads until Autumn or Winter and even then I’m just going to continue building up my skill and confidence. E2-E3 is achievable in terms of climbing difficulty but whether I can pull of the mental game and be safe is a different question.

To put it bluntly, I want to climb hard this year and I felt that I wouldn’t be able to do this on trad.  Having never tried anything harder than E1 and have never gone out and been able to try any trad route I would consider hard, I was really put off putting any time and effort into it. Now I’m not saying I’m suddenly going to convert to Trad,  my main focus for this summer is definitely sport, but my opinions have definitely changed after my day at The Roaches last Thursday.

After having not been able to get out since I tried Wild In Me a week and a half before I jumped at the chance to get out with JD, even if that meant going out trad climbing. But with a glorious forecast and a chance to climb on some real rock, I was hardy going to say no.

Despite been unable to decide what we wanted to focus our attentions on for the day, I quickly found myself tied in for an easy climb to warm up. Just as I had put my first piece of gear in on the severe I had gotten on, a group of school kids wondered past escorted by their teacher. Rather than walk on by of course, they stopped and the teacher tried to explain what I was doing. Now I’m not going to lie, I’ve had to back of severes in the past and with a group of school children watching,  I didn’t feel my pride and dignity  could take the shame of having a repeat of past experiences. What was supposed to be a pleasant warm up became a daunting prospect. Fortunately my confidence has greatly improved since I backed of Twenty Foot Crack at Burbage North at around the same time last year, and I made it to the top without any whimpering. A quick round of applause and a sigh of relief and the kids wondered off before JD had a chance to show off by seconding the route in his trainers.

After then seconding JD on a really nice VS where you literally had to crawl out to top out, JD put a top rope down on Barriers In Time. Having never climbed anything harder than E1, I expected the moves on a grit E6 to be impossible for myself, especially on a slab climb. So you can imagine my surprise when I found myself falling off just two moves from the top on my first go. Unfortunately I could not work out the two moves between where I got to and the top on any of my subsequent attempts. However it is definitely route I would like to go back and try again, especially as it looked pretty safe apart from the big fall you would take falling off the last two hard moves.  However it’s nice to know I should be able to do the moves on some harder grit routes and hopefully give them a go.

After we got bored of falling of Barriers, JD put another top rope on another three star slab route called The Thin Air.  An obligatory E5 solo with a nasty ground fall if you ever tried it.  However with the safety of the top rope I quickly found out I could do all the moves.  But it is still really droppable with a hard rock over followed by a toe to hand match before a hairy top out.  Despite this I kind of feel tempted to have a few more top ropes and then see if I had the guts to try it. JD managed to do it in a oner and I’m pretty sure he’ll be back this winter to tick it.

To finish of the day JD told me I should try Sifta’s Quid, which is in the guide book described as a “classic Roaches rite of passage”. Basically you have to crawl through a hole. If you want esoteric  value then this is the route for you.  Been assured you couldn’t fall out of the hole I headed up in my trainers without a rope to discover the wonders that lay within. I came out the other side about ten minutes later with a hole in my t-shirt and grit rash on my elbows, back, front and pretty much anywhere else exposed.  But if anyone is looking for a severe they’d struggle to fall of or a bit of fun, it’s definitely worth doing. Just remember to take of your harness if your soloing it and be prepared to lose your trousers if your belt isn’t done up.

My Back After Doing Siftas’ Quid

I was nicely surprised at how good the day out was as learning experience and it has definitely opened my eyes to what hard trad would be like. Maybe if I can keep my head together on the sharp end I’ll pull some cool ascents out of the bag this year, if not I’m definitely keen for a few more relaxing days having fun on some easy trad. A big thanks has to go out to JD for taking me out and showing me some new things and letting me top rope some harder stuff with him.

 

The Sun And The Rain – A Training Story

“I see kids who only climb in the gym and they look like caged animals in a zoo to me. I just want to set them free into the wild” – Alan Carne

Recently, whilst scrolling through Instagram, I stumbled upon this quote accompanied by a picture of the Verdun Gorge, bathed in glorious sunshine. I quickly took a screen shot, not wanting to lose the quote. It is short and sweet, but sums up perfectly the freedom climbing outdoors brings. So it’s a pity that the British summer seems to disappear every time I have a day off and as a result I’ve been outside climbing twice in the past five weeks and it’s starting to become clear that my psyche and optimism isn’t going to persuade anyone to drive an hour and a half to go and get wet. Maybe if you could pop to the crag after work and be back in time for tea if the weather was rubbish or everything was wet things would be different, but unfortunately that’s the way it is. And as I haven’t learnt to drive yet, so I can drive somewhere to get wet by myself, I am for now anyway forced just to become another kid training in the gym until it stops raining whenever I get a day off.

However I refuse to lose my psyche and am just taking it as an opportunity to get stronger and fitter for when I do get out next. As a result I have a massive list of projects at Redpoint I want to tick my way through as training.

The Redpoint Training Projects

And although I know not everyone enjoys training, I’m having real fun ticking through it (probably cause all I’m really doing is trying hard problems).  At the moment I’m training 4-6 days a week when I’m not getting outside and I’m doing a bit of campus board and lock of training as well around sessions on these projects.  At the moment I feel really motivated and hopefully I’m benefitting from it.  A fair few of the projects on the list are fairly old and I can remember not been able to do half the moves on them let alone link them around October/November time last year, so clearly something is going right. I guess the real testament will be how well I do in achieving the goals I set myself at the beginning of the year.

Screen Grab Of Me On One Of The Training Projects

Stay posted for my next post on my recent trip to The Roaches for the day, but in the meantime here are some pictures JD took of me on my first session on Dyperspace earlier this year that I didn’t even know he’d taken. A big thanks to him for taking them (they look amazing!) –

The Scientist – A Trip To The Tor

Lil’ Dom,  Hercules or Monster as he was affectionately called by a climber the other day, is one of the people I love climbing with the most.  Although we often climb at Redpoint together, unfortunately as he has to go to school and I as I have a job in retail, it’s rare that we ever have a day off together to go out and sample some real rock.  And even when we do the weather has to play ball and then there has to be someone willing to take us and then put up with us. However on Monday after many weeks of not getting outside at all, Dan, not really knowing what he was letting himself in for,  agreed to babysit us on our first trip to Raven Tor (for all three of us).

Any day out climbing is like Christmas day to me and I had a route on my list I was super psyched to get on and felt I had a good shot at after days of vigorous research. Dom had also been spewing out route names in the days prior to our trip and Dan just seemed to be getting dragged along for the ride. Taking some final route advice from Mirf, Dom decided to get on Out Of My Boot (7c) and I got on Wild In Me (7c). Despite the hours I had spent tirelessly watching the one video of Wild In Me I’d managed to find, I quickly realised my time had been wasted as everything I had watched was forgotten, and I fell off the first move of the route on my flash attempt.  Even after a few goes I still couldn’t work out the 6C boulder problem start and was forced to just work on the boulder problem before even thinking about putting the rest of the clips in, I untied and let Dom try Out Of My Boot.

Falling Off The First Move On Wild In Me On The Flash Attempt

Although struggling with the starting boulder problem because of the massive spans he had to make between the holds, Dom made light work of the upper section and definitely looked like with a bit of work on the start he could send the route.

Dom On The Reachy Start To Out Of My Boot

After not been able to work out the start to Wild In Me either, Dan also got on Out Of My Boot, and although finding the opening boulder problem easier than Dom as a result of his albatross like span, he still struggled with the trick crux move to a tiny undercut side pull before moving up to a good hold.

Although tempted to abandon Wild In Me and join my compadres’ on Out Of My Boot, some beta from a guy trying Blue Humps, quickly showed me where I had gone wrong and Me and Dan both sent the 6c boulder problem on our next attempts. After the boulder problem there are two hard moves both of which are droppable before matching on a handrail that constitutes ‘jugs’ compared to the rest of the route. Of these you clip second before pulling hard on crimps that grow gradually smaller before the third and final really droppable move.  It is a big move up to a side pull crimp, which even if you come close to, it is still killer to catch.  After this there is half a metre of glory jugs  before you clip the chains.  It’s a short sweet bouldery route, and I was really psyched at how quickly I worked out the rest of the route after being told how to do the start.  With the start now wired Dan felt obliged to remove his t-shirt and try the rest of the route as well. Any one would have thought he was getting on Unleashing The Wild Physique (worst climbing pun ever told, especially seen as UTWP is at Chee Dale and not Raven Tor).

Sorry Ladies, He’s Taken (However Don’t Worry I’m Still Single 😉 )

Still struggling with the spans at the start of Out Of My Boot, Dom decided to save some more serious attempt at working the route for a later date as he wanted to have a go at Weedkiller Traverse. So whilst I rested, Dom and Dan headed over for a recon of the moves, both coming back confident that fresh they would do it. Dan also nearly flashed Powerband, or at least till I realised the crux was right at the end and not after where he fell off.  But genuinely I thought he was going to do it!

Ready for a redpoint before we left I tied in for one last time. Although luck probably played a large part in how far I got, I managed to make it to the last hard move. Maybe just maybe, I could pull it out of the bag…

Just Before The Last Hard Move Of Wild In Me

…Unfortunately though, this time I just didn’t make it. However I’m still struggling to believe I even got that far on my first redpoint of a 7c. So I can’t really complain.

Just After The Last Hard Move

With time running out and a pint calling it was time to head home. Despite the fact none of us actually got up what we had first intended to we still had an amazing first trip to The Tor, and I can’t wait to get back and complete my unfinished business.

Here are a few more pictures of the day –

#CragSwag #ToCoolForSchool #SexyBeasts

Clipping Second On Wild In Me

Some Subliminal Advertising

Dom On The Upper Section Of Out Of My Boot

Smile Like You Mean It – Dyperspace The Send

On Monday it will have been three weeks since I sent Dyperspace and three weeks since I last went and climbed outdoors. I’m sure many of you reading this have no sympathy for the fact I haven’t been out climbing recently and I’m guessing most people who read my blog are probably fed up of hearing me talk about Dyperspace, however hopefully I’ve got some readers outside of my facebook friends who didn’t know I had sent Dyperspace and this write-up is for them and anyone else who enjoys reading my blogs anyway.

It took me just over a week to get back to Dinbren to try Dyperspace once again. Heading back with Dan, the other member of the self-proclaimed Redpoint dream team, I was ready for the send. Surely with fresh arms it would go this time round. Not even the fact I had become another wierdo on the bus as a result of my blue E9 trousers and clip stick that threatened to decapitate anyone who came to close, could distract me from the thought of a possible send. After a quick stop at the COOP in Llangollen for a sausage roll and some luckazade (my staple crag diet) we arrived to find that conditions were good, the crag was dry, there was a slight wind and the sun was shining. Taking Mirfs’ advice on how to get the send, I warmed up by putting the draws in and repeating the sequence where I had dropped it last time a few times to get it wired. Something didn’t feel right, I hadn’t done it that way when I’d done Babycrusher. Discovering a forgotten undercut the sequence was changed again and after a rest I was ready to go for another redpoint.

I took a few deep breaths before setting off and tried to relax. Nerves however got the better of me first time round and I cut loose three times at the large block. Feeling I’d wasted too much energy I jumped off and tried to relax. Staying tied in I had a quick ten minute rest before setting off again. Second time round I cruised through the first section up to fourth clip. Despite struggling to clip it as I had extended it to far in hope of making it easier to clip (the irony) I pushed on. My sequence change worked and I found myself at the undercut jugs, just a few short pulls from the chains and glory. A quick shake out did little for the pump I was now feeling in my arms and reaching round to the good holds over the overhang was taking everything I had left out of me. I couldn’t drop it now. Hardly able to feel the holds I was pulling on, I pulled anyway and suddenly found myself, rather dumbfounded, clipping the chains. To baffled by what had just happened, I threaded the lower off and stripped the route without any major celebration. I can’t really call it an anticlimax though, because it felt so good when it finally sunk in that I’d actually done it. I was just so surprised at first that I had done it, just because of how hard it had felt working it and how easy, despite been pumped at the top, it had felt on the send.

If you want to see a video of me doing the route just click the link here – https://vimeo.com/92667225

Since then though, I’ve been forced to working on my training projects at Redpoint as a result of the rain, or no one been free to go out on my days off. Oh well I’m heading out on Monday for sure (assuming the weather plays ball) and hopefully to Raven Tor for the first time. Lets hope this training pays off and I find the route I want to try at The Tor ok.

 

 

Climbatize – El Chorro Part 3

With a 7a+ comfortably under my belt and with the days only seeming to be getting hotter, it  was time to start looking for some shade to climb in.  Desplomilandia, was the perfect location, north facing, in the shade and it has a selection of classic short but hard routes. Only one thing was stopping me and Craig  getting there. It would be a very long walk. Potentially so long that by the time we got there, we’d be turning around to get back again. This meant the only other places to go in hope of finding some shade would be back to Poema De Roca or into The Gorge.  Despite the unseasonably warm weather we were still faced with some tough choices between excellent climbing venues.

Fortunately on the next day, our choice was made for us.  A lift was to Desplomilandia was offered to us by the young english gent and his mother, who we had met at Poema De Roca, it was an offer we couldn’t refuse.  Adam and Ella, as they introduced themselves on the drive over, were clearly no strangers to climbing trips and Adam, although modest,  was clearly an extremely strong climber.  Already a legend in our eyes after we had seen him onsight 8a,  Adam was quick to cement this status as he put another 8a to bed another at Despomilandia.  After warming up and waiting an hour to get on the route, he casually strolled up, told the other climbers on it (with true british politeness) that he didn’t need third pre-clipped, despite it apparently been a hard clip (the words of the other climbers working it) and tied in. Meanwhile in the background me and Craig and decided to get on a short 7a and 7a+, despite them only having one star between them. After coming down for about the fith time, I looked over just in time to see Adam silently floating to the top of this 8a. it didn’t take long for me and Craig to strip our routes and move on. unfortunately for me I spent most of the rest of the day sulking on the floor as my confidence seemed to disappear once again and I bailed on a 6a.

The View From Desplomilandia

The trip was turning into a roller coaster ride of confidence and as a result leading me to the verge of tears with frustration and anger. Why couldn’t my lead head just click and stay clicked! I was falling off, I knew I was safe, I was trying hard, I’d trained hard for the trip, so why did I keep getting the fear?

Returning back that evening, I felt numb, I didn’t know what to do, I still had a fair amount of time left of the trip and I still wanted to climb hard, but my head game was letting me down.  For the hundredth time of the trip I vowed to only redpoint routes.

The next day I decided to head into The Gorge on some advice from Mirf to try Bob Marley a classic 7c.  I’m sure based on what you’ve already ready read you have guessed the outcome of this trip. Rusty looking bolts and a forgotten clip stick provided the perfect excuse to just enjoy the gorge. However after lunch I manned up a little and fell of a 7a+ onsight in the blazing heat of the middle of the day.

The Pipe Bridge In The Gorge

By now there was less than a week left and with The Gorge and Desplomillandia out as places to go climbing,  we turned our attention back to the cave.  La Villa Strangiato became my focus as it was steep, short, and the crux was low down after a five metre scramble.  I had it worked by the end of the first day and Craig even managed to send it second redpoint.  When it came to my second redpoint the following day tactics came into play and the t-shirt came off. Despite getting surprisingly boxed I made it to the top and could relax.  A beer was clearly in order.

The Path To Poema De Roca

The rest of the trip after this was pretty un eventful climbing wise for me, I stood at the bottom of a 7c in the cave called Eye Of The Storm, a fantastic looking, super overhanging route,  but with only three days left,  after a go each me and Craig decided it wasn’t worth the time we had left.  Then most of the day after was lost following a night out at a student party.  It was a good party though, I only avoided embarrassing myself by falling asleep at two o’clock in the morning on a sun lounge.  Fortunatly someone woke me up and pointed me in the direction of a sofa before someone else decided the lounge would look far nicer in the pool. Craig, from what I gathered tried to make it back to the campsite, but instead ended up on a sofa in a different bungalow.  By the time the last day rolled round I was to pumped to even lead a long and juggy 7a I had worked all the moves on, falling off even lower than I had on the onsight attempt.

And well that was it, my first climbing trip abroad over, I had survived, despite not having a clue what I was doing half the time and having only had pasta with either tuna or mince pretty much every night for tea. So maybe it hadn’t gone how I had expected and I hadn’t crushed it on the rock,  but looking back now, that doesn’t really matter. I learnt so much about been left to roam without my parents in the background and my confidence on rock has definitely increased.  In the month since I have been back I have managed to lead a 7a second go and I also managed to lead Dyperspace (7c) at Dinbren.  So I guess all there is left to say is stay tuned for more tales of my climbing antics and if you ever go to El Chorro, definitely stay at The Olive Branch.

The View As I Waited For A Train To Leave El Chorro

 

Not Giving In – Working Dyperspace

Located just five minutes away from the Coop in Llangollen ( an ideal place to pick up lunch for the day), Dinbren is a limestone sports climbing venue in the Clwyd and a real gem of a crag. It is also home to my current project – Dyperspace.

Dyperspace was first put up by Rob Mirfin (Mirf) in 2003 as a direct start to Babycrusher. The route tackles a short roof start that goes as a boulder problem I’d put at around 6c+/7a, before leading into the 7b route crux of Babycrusher. Given 7c, although apparently soft for the grade (it still feels super hard for me to link it all up to me at the moment), it will be my hardest ascent to date when I finally send it.

I first got on Dyperspace last September after having sent Babycrusher second go just a month earlier. I spent my first seenion on the route working out the boulder problem start and by the time I had it worked I was psyched for the send, but to pumped to have any redpoint attempts. I dashed back as soon as I could, with Mirf as my belay,  and I quickly jumped on a top rope to reacquaint myself with the upper sequence. All went well and with bad weather looming on the horizon I quickly tied into the sharp end for my first redpoint. I blew it pretty quickly. Round two and I made it past the first crux, but lacking a clipping sequence I blew it after failing to clip fourth and messing up my foot sequence. I felt confident that with one more redpoint I would get it. Then it started to rain. Then, bar a few dry days when I got out on the grit, all it seemed to do was rain until the weekend after I got back from Spain.

The weekend after I got back from Spain I went to Llanymynech, but this Friday and Saturday (following two days training and a day stripping and route setting) I managed to get two more sessions on Dyperspace. So much for one more redpoint. On Friday I bolt to bolted it and quickly had the upper sequence re-wired. Then after finding a new sequence for the start I felt confident. Four redpoints later and I was running out of burns. One last go and I found myself at the 7b crux for the first time. Despite feeling boxed I committed for the pocket. I didn’t make it, I didn’t even touch it with the tips of my fingers. Then to add insult to my frustration I pulled a jug off at the top and took a good lob. It felt like I had come closer to gaining my pilot wings than to actually getting Dyperspace. Although I was initially gutted, I still felt super psyched and luck was on my side, I would be back tomorrow. Despite a pessimistic weather report for Saturday, we took the risk and headed out. It paid off and despite a few showers and the beer towel been called into action to clear up some seepage, I managed to get three more redpoints in. A foot slip putting the draws in meant I blew the first attempt and then getting my body position wrong on the second attempt of the day meant I was flung into space once again. I knew I only had one more burn on me and somehow I pulled through the opening sequence and  then I managed to catch the pocket on the 7b crux. My finger tips had somehow managed to grab the bare minimum of the pocket, but with one move to the jugs I thought that surely I’d be able to pull through. Twisting my right hand to a position where I could push down off it I was struggling and despite utter commitment I was off in a matter of seconds. “F********************************K” I screamed uncontrollably as all my frustration poured out.  A brief pause and then when what had happened fully sunk in, a roar of “NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO” poured out as well. Skin shredded, arms pumped beyond belief and it was over for the day.

The Bit Of Wall With Dyperspace On At Dinbren

So what went wrong? How could I go from thinking I needed one more redpoint to falling of eight times in two days?

I could give a long list if excuses, and trust me over the past few days I have analysed all the reasons I didn’t send it and the consequences of not getting it quickly.  All I will say is, although I feel stronger than I did at the end of last September, I am not currently as route fit as I was and/or I was to pumped after route setting and training in the three days before my first session on Friday. Of course I have also stressed out a little and started wondering if this means I won’t climb harder 7c’s or even an 8a this year, because I haven’t got Dyperspace as quickly as I expected. But fortunately thanks to guidance from the low-key legend himself, Mirf, I have come to see the positives of my recent attempts on Dyperspace. For starts I’ll be building up more route fitness and confidence falling off it than I would have done getting it on my first redpoint of the year. It is also going to be my first 7c and breaking into a new grade can take time, be frustrating and be difficult (something which applies to a climber trying to break into any grade). And yes although I’m stronger than last year, it has definitely taught me how valuable route fitness is even on shorter routes. And last but not least hopefully it’s going to feel a lot better when I finally get it (or so I keep telling myself). The key is not giving in, especially when you know eventually it will go.

For your entertainment here is a link to a video filmed by me (but edited by the beloved Father Ratcliffe) of me falling off (the swearing has been edited out) – https://vimeo.com/91333762

And well that pretty much sums up Dyperspace so far. Stay posted for any more news on it.